Sakhalin Island off the East Coast of Russia

Today, I am fortunate enough to find myself  working on an Oil Platform on Sakhalin Island and would like to share my observations of life in the remote regions of the world. Sakhalin Island is located North of Japan, off the East Coast of Russia in the Sea of Okhotsk. Nearly 1000kms long and 170km at the widest point, this island has quite a history and it’s inhabitation dates back to the Neolithic Stone Age. But the real story starts around 1679 with a colonization attempt by the Japanese. A treaty between Russia and China made no mention of ownership over the island so the Russians began to occupy it from the North with an Army made up of convicts from the 18th Century onwards. Japan settled from the South and this was the start of the disagreements over ownership of the island.
When I first started working on the mainland 3 years ago, it was an absolute mission to get to site. I was working at the DeKastri Terminal and after landing in Khabarovsk, we would spend 18 hours in the back of one of these Kamaz trucks. Have a look at this video that I took during one of the quite moments.

Thankfully, I was later moved onto the Orlan Platform which is found off the North Eastern coast of sakhalin Island. After landing at Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk airport, you get your first glimpse of what is in stall. 300 people all trying to be processed thru 2 desks at immigration can have you waiting for up to an hour and you better make sure all your documents are in order or you have the Russian Authorities to deal with. Once out of the airport and on route to your hotel, you can’t help but wonder where on earth you are. The time warp sends you back to the 1930’s or 1940’s with old dilapidated concrete buildings surrounded by run down timber houses. Some have burnt down, others just fell apart and were never rebuilt but it makes you wonder how they live in these conditions thru the chilling winter months. I guess that’s what the Vodka is for. A drive thru town shows more of the same. Recent years and the influx of money from the Oil Industry is now starting to transform Yuzhno into a bustling city. Sakhalin has always lacked in services and infrastructure. Massive holes in the roads made some of them impassable by a standard car and power and water interruptions were a frequent occurrence. I’ve seen picture’s of power line towers that have frozen into 30ft towers of ice and simply collapse under the enormous weight. But now we can see some money going back into infrastructure. The roads are being re-sealed and curbs and a few traffic lights can be found in the city. Power lines are being replaced and new buildings are being built. New hotels, office blocks and shopping centers can now be seen all over the city and you get the feeling the momentum is building as well. After a comfortable night at the Strawberry Hills Hotel, Pacific Plaza or Mega Palace (to name just a few) you head for the train station and await the 14 hour train journey up to Nogliki. With the first railway line being built on Sakhalin Island in 1906 by the Japanese, you can’t help but wonder if this is it. I’m sure I could walk faster than this! But in the winter months you wouldn’t dare as the temperature can reach below -40’C. The boiler bubbles away in the corner of the carriage, pumping hot air thru the cabins and making us sweat. It’s a slow rocking motion and you wonder if you’ll ever get there. But you always do. For us oil workers, Nogliki is the helicopter Hub of  Northern Sakhalin. Housing the helicopters for Sakhalin Energy and Exxonmobil, it is the point where we catch a helicopter out to the platform. My flight is about 40 minutes North, overland to Chayvo and then another ten minutes out to sea to the Orlan platform. But as usual, it’s all about the weather. If the wind is too strong then the helicopters won’t fly. If it’s from the south, they won’t fly. If the cloud level is to low they won’t fly and we are left to stay at Nogliki Camp (aka Prison Camp). But when we do fly, it great. A Mil-8 Helicopter flies us out to the platform where we are greated with huge smiles and handshakes from the friends we haven’t seen for the last month. So, from leaving the UK four days ago, I now find myself ready for another month of “Ground Hog Day”.

Christmas Island – And those Crazy Red Crabs!

Christmas Island in the Indian Ocean is quite simply one of my greatest childhood memories.

A Brief History

British and Dutch navigators first included the island on their charts in the early seventeenth century, and Captain William Mynors of the British East India Company vessel, the Royal Mary, named the island when he arrived on Christmas Day, 25 December 1643. Located approximately 2600kms NW of Perth in Western Australia and 300Kms from Indonesia, it is officially an Australian Territory, with a population of approximately 1493 people (as of 2006). But this was not always the case. At Australia’s request, the United Kingdom transferred sovereignty to Australia; in 1957, when the Australian government paid the government of Singapore £2.9 million in compensation, a figure based mainly on an estimated value of the phosphate forgone by Singapore. Phosphate was the islands predominant income and was regularly sold to the Asian markets, when trade began back in the early 1890s. The mine was later closed by the Australian Government in 1987 and the island lost it’s primary source of income. Since then, several ventures have been made and proposed . In 1993 a prestigious Casino was built to lure in clients from all over the world, but  was later closed in 1998 and never re-opened. There was later talks of a Spaceport being built, which luckily never eventuated and it now finds itself a springboard to some of the Immigration issues between Asia and Australia.

An Island Playground

I was fortunate enough to have spent 3 years of my childhood there from 1980 to 1983 and can remember vividly the true spirit of this beautiful place. The smooth pebble beach at Flying Fish Cove and the Satay Sticks at the Boat Club. Following my Dad around the Golf Course and going exploring through the jungle on the weekends. But the most vivid part of the whole 3 years would have to be the Red Crabs. They were absolutely everywhere during the migration season. On the roads, in the parks, in your classroom and in your house. The roads were literally RED from the millions of crabs that were trying to get to the beach for the annual migration. It was simply impossible to avoid them and playing golf was always a laugh because we would often have to move the ball to play it. Here’s a great video that I recently found that gives a funny outlook of the annual migration that has been called one of the wonders of the natural world^[7]

Because the island was uninhabited until the late 19th Century and the fact that 63% is now National Park, Christmas Island is considered to be of immense scientific value. The dense tropical jungles provide a home to many rare and endangered species of animals and of the 135 plant species found in the world,  sixteen are only found on Christmas Island. The Island wildlife is simply incredible. I remember spending nights on the beach, watching the Green Turtles lay their eggs in the sand and later when they hatched, we would see them all scrambling down to the water for safety. We would explore the jagged limestone cliffs, looking for bird life and aquatic animals to satisfy our curiosity.  We were always out exploring somewhere. Camping on remote beaches and running through the jungle playing games. As children, we were free to express ourselves in a safe and exotic environment. It was a place of family fun, sports and lifestyle and they are memories that I will never forget.

To travel to Christmas Island, I believe there are still two flights per week. These leave from either Perth in Western Australia or from Kuala Lumpur with Malaysian Airlines. The tourism industry is really starting to grow, as people discover the many different activities available on the island. Diving, fishing and surfing are all becoming popular island sports and the camping, 4×4 and hiking environments are simply incredible. It is a brilliant place with a lot of character and one that I would recommend to anyone.

Yours truly,

Stuart Ginbey

Voluntary Work in Tanzania

One of the best times of my life so far, was when my wife Lizzie and I traveled to Tanzania in Africa to do some voluntary work for 7 months with an organization called SPW (Student Partnerships Worldwide). This trip was incredible! We were living in a very remote village that was 4 hours drive from the nearest road with hardly any facilities. The village was fortunate enough to have running water which was piped in a few years previous, but apart from that it was very basic. We lived on rice, pumpkin leaves and ground nuts and that was pretty much it. The village was called Iringa and we were placed with some Tanzanian volunteers to aid with communication.

Our aim was to help the locals with an education that would change their lives and we were determined to make a difference. Reality was a very different story though. AIDS, poverty, disease, alcoholism (a local brew called Ulansi – made from sugar cane) all created an average life span of about 40 yrs, if that! We found ourselves getting very frustrated. There we were, pumped up and ready to make a difference. Determined, so that they didn’t have to live like this anymore. Yet the biggest part of the whole trip, was sitting back one day and just watching them go about their business. Yes they were living short lives in really poor conditions, but most of them were happy. Everyday, I would see them walking around with a great big African smile yet I couldn’t understand why. Looking back now, I can see that the ‘why’ was never about them. It was about me. Why couldn’t I see that life is not about working hard, but enjoying the moments that we have. We are all going to do it hard. Some more than others. But it’s our mindset that determines our quality of life.

Yours truly,
Stuart Ginbey

I dream of being a Polar Explorer

When I was a child at the age of 6 years old, my family moved to Christmas Island in the Indian Ocean, to live for 3 yrs. This was such a fantastic stage of my life, as it was incredibly fun and adventurous to say the least. We were always outdoors going off on crazy little adventures and on the weekends, my Dad would take us off into the jungle to explore the remotest parts of the island. One day, an Australian Navy boat came into port and it just happened to be one of the boats that my father used to work on so we were allowed on board to have a look around and meet up with some of his old friends. This was incredibly exciting to me as we were shown around the engine rooms and later through the cabins and galley.

In the following weeks, I would picture myself sailing around the world and going to some of the remotest places on the globe. I used to imagine what it was like to go to Antarctica and the North Pole and have the craziest thought’s of being a polar explorer. As, I later grew up, the same thoughts were always in the back of my mind. In 1994 when I finished my apprenticeship as an airconditioning engineer I applied for work in Antarctica. Sadly, and quite comically, my application was rejected as they felt they didn’t need airconditioning engineers where it was so cold. Funnily enough I now find myself working in Eastern Russia where last winter it was -35′C. But the point of my story is that I have recently moved to Somerset in the UK and low and behold, in the next village to where I live, is the South West head quarters for the ICE WARRIOR team. For some reason this polar theme has come back into my life again and I live for the day that this dream will one day be fulfilled. Ice warrior is a scientific project led by Jim and Lori McNeill. They are fully supported by Julian Morgan as operations manager and a team of dedicated staff who are helping to gather research data on global warming. They also realize that like myself, many people want to visit the Polar regions and they have devised a way to achieve both goals at the same time.

“In this modern age, our discoveries are more about subjects such as the reality of global climate change, changes to flora, fauna and topography and as we come across these experiences we deliver them into the many homes, schools and businesses that follow us.

These are truly life-changing experiences and demonstrate that with the right attitude, preparation and training, ordinary people can achieve extraordinary things; like walk to the North Poles.”

Unfortunately, at the moment, the timing is not quite right for me to go on such an expedition. But I know, that deep down, one day soon, I will. In preparation of keeping this goal in focus, I have recently joined the Langport Runners Club. I am certainly not built like a runner so by stepping out of my comfort zone, I have decided to work on my fitness and try to maintain a level that will help me when the time arrives.

Once again the North Pole is a personal goal. It is listed on my goal poster at home and I know that it is something that I will focus on in the next 5 years. For what ever reasons these thoughts have come back into my life, it is a great reminder to me that I need to take daily action to achieving my goals. Life is about adventure and the fun that you have. Living your dreams and the smile on your face. For me, getting to the North Pole, is a childhood dream. One that I always thought impossible.  I guess deep down, I never really believed I would ever get to the North Pole, but now a very achievable solution has presented itself.

Soon, when the time is right, I will make the commitment to this achievement. Obviously, there are a lot of other factors to consider, like time and money, family commitments and fitness levels. But these will not be excuses to stop me from achieving a goal. Just things that need to be managed as part of the journey.

I once dreamed of being a polar explorer and now that reality is just a mile down the road!

Take care and have a most outstanding day.

Yours sincerely,

Stuart.

Working on an Australian Prawn Trawler

When I had finished school after year 12, I needed to earn some money before starting my apprenticeship. I decided to go to work on the Prawn Trawlers up north of Australia between Darwin in the Northern Territory and Weepa in Queensland. We were out at sea for Tiger season which was 7 months long and Banana season which went for a further 2 months. It was honestly the hardest job I have ever done in my life. Banana season was flat out. We worked 24 hrs a day and basically the harder and faster we worked, the more chance we would have of getting 20minutes sleep between the nets being brought up. Having said that, it was fun, very lively and the pay was great.

One experience I will never forget is the day I was bitten by a Sea Snake. It was the luckiest day of my life. We had been catching hundred of snakes over the past few months and simply put a shovel over their head, grab them by the tail and flick them back out to sea. No worries. Job done! this time however was different. I was bringing up the Tri Gear ( a small net to show how much we were catching). I through the grapple over and hooked the net. Pulled it in and spilled it’s contents into the basket that I had at my feet. The problem was it had a sea snake in it. This thing was going nuts. Bouncing off the walls and getting really agitated. So I knelt down, slowly took aim and with two fingers grabbed him by the back of the head. The problem was I got him about a centimeter too low and he bend his head backward and bit me on the thumb. With blood on my hand, I was yelling to the deck crew to let them know I’d been bitten. People were running around everywhere not knowing what to do. We were hours from the nearest hospital and these guys kill in minutes. We washed my hand off,soaked it in Detol and they sat me down, watching for any signs that the venom was taking effect. Six crew all staring at me about 2 foot away from my face. But nothing happened. Not a single symptom. All I can say is that maybe he bit a fish in the net as I was pulling it up and emptied his fangs.

Either way I’m extremely grateful.

Life is good!
Stuart

Life as a HVAC Engineer on a Russian Oil Platform

I’ve often been asked about what it is like to work in the Oil & Gas Industry and especially on a platform in the remote regions of Far Eastern Russia – namely Sakhalin Island. Well let me tell you how it is.

My name is Stuart Ginbey and I am the Company Owner of Tradewinds Marine and Offshore. We specialize in the Service and Commissioning of HVAC (Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning) equipment in both the Oil & Gas and Marine Industries. I have over 16 years of experience as a HVAC Engineer/Supervisor and travel the world assisting different clients with their relevant projects.

There are many roles on an Offshore Installation that require our assistance and it is slowly becoming recognized as a necessary craft unto itself. In the past, most of the HVAC work was divided amongst the Mechanics, Electricians and Instrumentation Engineer’s. This is now changing, as these Engineers have their own workload to contend with and HVAC is becoming more of a specialized field. Our role covers all four disiplines of Mechanical, Electrical and Instrumentation, PLC and Refrigeration and Airconditioning. Our clients are now discovering the benefits of a Multi-Skilled Engineer to handle all of these HVAC related disciplines to allow their own Engineers to focus on the “Oil Producing” aspect of the platform. A HVAC Engineer is responsible for the commissioning and maintenance of a huge variety of equipment. This will include maintaining Hazardous Areas like the Shale Shaker Room or BOP Area, at a Static Pressure of -50Pa to ensure these hazardous gases do not escape into the surrounding area’s. For this reason air balancing and pressure monitoring plays a major part of our day to day routine. Then we have to maintain the temperature in the Switch Gear rooms at 21′C and 50% Humidity. These areas are also critical because if the equipment overheats due to high room temperatures, then it can shut production down at that will cost Million of US Dollars. One experience I recently had was where the room temperature had crept up to 24′C, but the 6Kv switchboards have sea water cooling pipes going through them. Because of our location, the water temperature rarely gets above 5′C and the high room temperature caused excessive condensation on these cooling pipes. This became so bad that the condensation then progressed onto the switchgear and we were at risk of the panel blowing up and subsequently shutting down production.

We also look after the Living Quarters to make sure that the freezers keep running and the inside living environment is kept as close to 22′C as possible for the personnel. With temperatures reaching -35′C outside and add to that a windchill factor of who knows how much, you will begin to understand what a task this can be. Working outside is almost equivalent to working in the desert regions of the world but of course on the other end of the scale. We can’t be exposed to these temperatures for very long and have to take regular ‘Coffee’ breaks to warm up. Drink plenty of fluids and dress appropriately. Everything becomes difficult too and frostbite is a major risk factor. Another job that springs to mind was one that I had to do this winter (February 2008). It was -30′c outside and blowing an absolute gale. The supply fan for the Emergency generator room was constantly tripping the main circuit breaker and the generator and surrounding equipment was freezing up. Therefore it was critical to get this fan back up and running to get some heating back into the Generator room.I was dressed for the occasion in every piece of clothing that I owned. Two pairs of thermals, fireproof coveralls, my freezer suit, sheepskin hat and 3 pairs of gloves. I put on a safety harness and rapelled down to where the fan was located and discovered that it was just a few burnt wires and could be fixed. Now this job should have taken about 1 hour to complete, maybe 2 given the location. However due to the conditions it took me 3 days to terminate and reconnect 6 wires and test it’s operation.I couldn’t terminate the wires because I had 3 pairs of gloves on and when I took them off my hands simply froze and locked up. Ten minutes later I would be back inside having a coffee and trying to warm myself up. In the end we had to build a scaffold tower up to the fan and put up a tarpaulin to block the wind. Within a few hours we were back online and heating again.

In my experience, the offshore lifestyle has been exhilarating to say the least. The commradory on board is essential because we have to live together for long periods of time and cannot escape. Quiet time or time alone is generally when you get into bed, close the curtains and put your headphones on to listen to some music or watch a DVD. We work 7 days a week, 12 hours per day so it can become pretty routine. Get up at 5am, have breakfast, go to a daily safety meeting, start at 6am, work to 6pm with breaks at 9am,12pm and 3pm. Another safety meeting, dinner, go to the gym,get on the internet for a while and go to sleep. Ready to do it all again tomorrow.

One of the problems that we face out here is the weather and getting to/from the platform by helicopter. If the wind is from the South, they won’t fly,if the wind is too strong-they wont fly. If the ceiling (cloud level) is too low – they wont fly and if the fog is in – they wont fly. Obviously this is all for our safety and that of the pilots, but it can lead to major delays, rescheduling of flights and also accomodation. I’ve spent 4 days in one of the camps waiting to get out to the platform and it has taken me over a week just to get to work. For me, getting to work means a 1 hr taxi ride from my house to Bristol airport (UK). Fly from Bristol to Amsterdam (6 hour wait) then fly to Seoul Korea and stay over night in a hotel. The next day I fly to Yuzhno-Sakhalinisk and get a 14hour overnight train to Nogliki where I will then get a Helicopter up to Chayvo and then out to the platform. This mixed with jet lag means your pretty much exhausted by the time you get to work, but everyone is the same and we are given a day or two to get into the swing of things.

All in all, I love my job. I fly all over the world visiting different regions that I probably wouldn’t usually see. It combines adventure travel with a career and pays fairly well. The downside is time away from home and missing the family. You have to weigh it up. I work 6 months per year, travel the world and have an exciting job, but on the other hand having a young family puts a lot of pressure on my wife at home and I also miss part of their lives growing up. But then again I’m home for 6 months of the year and can take them school and ballet lessons and horse riding lessons. Things I probably wouldn’t be able to do if I was working 10 hour days 6 days a week at home.

If your looking to get into the Oil & Gas Industry, my advice would be this: Think hard about it and consider all the options. What will it be like to be away from the family for so long? How will they react to it and will it affect your children? Are you experienced enough to deal with any trade related emergencies by yourself? How long do I plan to do this for?

Overall, the lifestyle is great. The working conditions are getting better every year and there is a real team effort around the workplace. You must be willing to help out where ever needed and generally the favor will be returned. The traveling to some of these remote locations is often the hardest part of the job. But on the upside that is also half the fun. It is a small industry in the sense that your name will start to float around and you will begin to meet people you know at the many different airports of the world. For this reason, consider your actions, for you will be remembered for what you do.

Yours truly,

Stuart Ginbey

Tradewinds Marine and Offshore Ltd

www.tradewindsmarine.co.uk

Camping in Botswana with lions

My wife Lizzie, myself and two other friends had hired a guide (Shylock) and his 4×4 to take us on a Safari Trip through Botswana in Africa. We pulled up at a campsite by a river and pitched the tents. We then went out chasing Elephants and didn’t see a single one all day. Until late in the arvo, when the sun was starting to set and we headed back to camp. Hanging out in the back of the jeep, Lizzie suddenly spots one far over in the distance and we come to a screaming sliding holt. We all jumped up, cameras at the ready as about 150 elephants walked straight up to the car, parted in the middle and continued around us as if we weren’t even there. They were all there. The Mums, the Dads, the cousins and the little ones. We were stoked!

The sky was a perfect setting sun and an absolutely amazing experience. We then headed back to camp all smiles and loving the day we had just had. We had a few beers and Shylock cooked us a beautiful meal on the open fire. By now it was dark. And I mean pitch black! When for the first time, we heard a lion roar in the distance. Across the other side of the river. Ah perfect, pure sounds of Africa. I was loving it. Then, about an hour later, we heard another one. But this time it was on our side of the river, although still far away. We carried on, half heartedly laughing and cleaning the dishes and getting ready for bed, when Joe and Ken went off to the toilet. More growls from the midnight moon and we were all starting to get concerned. Another growl, although this time resonating deep in the belly of a very hungry beast. Ken and Joe sprinted back to the fire, breaking the world record for the 100m sprint and we all looked to Shylock for a plan. Right, the best thing to do is just get in your pathetic little plastic tents and go to sleep. YEAH RIGHTO MATE!!!GOOD ONE. So Lizzie and I went about 3m into the bush for a quick loo stop before hitting the sack. Delicately trying to be close to the camp but still out of site. Then Joe shouts at us. Hey guys I can see some eyes, as he shines his torch at us sitting there like a couple of possums caught in the headlights. Yeah, yeah, good one Joe. No, no, I can, look behind you. We looked behind us and saw the eyes of a massive lioness.Head down,right paw forward. Stalking. AAAARRRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Freeze! Shylock shouted at us. DO NOT MOVE!!!!! Ok. Now walk very slowly, backwards, back to the fire. The feeling of relief as we made it back to the fire alive was quickly vanished as a second lion came stalking around the other side of the jeep. One from each side. Teamwork. Unbelievable! They do this for a living. By this stage we were screaming our heads off and looking to Shylock for a little advice. Right Ken,Joe,Lizzie go and get by the fire. Stu here,catch. And he throws a bloody frying pan at me. What the hell do you expect me to do with this? Bang her on the nose as she rips me apart. And besides. Why can’t I get to go and stand by the fire too? Here comes another one. Great two frying pan’s. Smash em together and make as much noise as you can. And wave your arms around too. He went one way and I went the other. I don’t know what the guys at the fire were thinking but I must have looked like I was claiming first prize from the ministry of silly walks, flapping my arms and legs and feet. Even my bloody ears were flapping. I tried everything.

Well, the plan worked and they eventually got the idea that they weren’t wanted as they sniggered, turned around and waltzed off into the darkness. I felt like fainting. Shylock, where’s your bloody gun. Your an ex-poacher turned ranger. What were you thinking. “I don’t carry a gun anymore. I don’t like them”. It was the smell of the meat on the fire at attracted them. Yeah, well next time. Try vegetarian will you. Ok, so the best thing you can do now is get in your tents and go to sleep. Ok,Ok. We all went to bed. Petrified at the thought of what just happened. Petrified at the thought of a massive claw coming thru the tent wall and ripping us to shreds. Pure unadulterated fear! The next morning we all woke up to see some massive paw prints all around the tents. Shylock woke up laughing. What are you laughing at ? He said: You Stu! I couldn’t believe it. Within 2 minutes of you getting into your tent, you were snoring your head off!!!!!

We’ll that gets my heart going just telling the story.

Hope you enjoyed it.

Yours truly,

Stuart.

A Fortunate Life!

Welcome to “A Fortunate Life“

My name is Stuart Ginbey and I’ve created this site to bring together all the incredible experiences that we as travelers have had to endure. Traveling to me, is a way of life. Ever since I was a child, I’ve moved from place to place. That is simply how we lived. My parents would buy a cheap house, fix it up and sell it and we’d move onto the next one. At the age of 6 we moved to Christmas Island for 3 years and I was let loose in the jungle. Going out on weekend trips with my father and brother, we were out exploring the remote parts of the island. Since leaving school at the end of year 12, I completed an apprenticeship in airconditioning and by saving some money, was able to go to Nepal, India and Thailand as my first real trip overseas. It was here that the adventure began and I had “the bug”. When I finished my apprenticeship I was out on the prawn trawlers of Northern Australia with a thirst for more. After a year at sea, I was off, backpacking around the world. New Zealand, England, Italy, France , Spain, Gibralter and also Morroco. Since meeting my wife, we have travelled throughout Africa and spent our honeymoon in Nepal.

By a stroke of good fortune and sequence of events, I now travel the world as an Air conditioning Engineer in the Oil and Gas Industry. I find myself in some remarkable locations and are grateful for the opportunity to combine both my job with my passion for traveling. My intention here is to share some of the fantastic experiences that I have had through many years of traveling the world. The kind of stories that have etched themselves in my mind and are the basis of my character. To me, a good life is about the experiences that we have had. Even the bad times will eventually make up a good life story. I look forward to sharing this with you and hope that you come back for regular visits.

Many thanks,

Stuart.